Telmo Rodriguez, Tierras de Castille

A ‘barranco’ is a radical vineyard, and they really are: brown schist, ravine-steep, ultra-high-altitude, no ‘soil’to speak of, and quite minerally with lots of quartz. Fruit from old, niggardly centenarian bush-vines, now farmed biodynamically, is now gently handled in large older French oak and concrete eggs. Smells of brick-dust, floral red fruits, pimiento and woodspice. Big never so beautiful - it has space, grace and wisdom exceeding extract and alcohol.

The granite vineyards of the 'Pegaso Granito' are high altitude, but flatter in profile than the 'Pizzara' and oriented to the north. The cold mineral soil and cool orientation really does promote amazing finesse and delicacy in the fruit of these 100 yo+ vase pruned bush vines. Orange juice/Tahitian lime aromas layer with bracken over spicy red berry fruit. Good volume on entry to the palate, which is long, subtle and balanced, that fans out without ever getting big. Large, older barrel use is perfectly integrated with these old vines – careful extraction promotes delicacy and harmony.