Descendientes de J. Palacios Single Vineyards, D.O. Bierzo

'Moncerbal' is from 0.86 hectares of the Moncerbal hillside facing southwest in the village of Corullon, at around 700m, with vines around 100 years old. Fermented in small open wooden vats, then aged 14 months in new French barriques. Sweet beets and Asian spices, violet over dense blueberry and fruit of the forest nose; the heavy blues follow on palate with kelp, plum, meat and violet floral release at finish. The palate has just outstanding line, with a crunching mineral, steely thread.

'Las Lamas' is from 0.54 hectares of south-facing slope on the hill named Las Lamas in Corullon, comprised of one each of 60, 90 and 100 year old patches of vines. Oak etc as for Moncerbal; unfiltered, total production 5 barrels. Equal parts carne and carnal, there’s wildness all about this wine. Wild raspberry, tiny cherries and forest floor nose, very attractive. The fruit is higher and wider in mouth than Moncerbal (typically so), redder and fleshier too, with wild rose and brambles in the mix. There’s grip and grit in the tannin structure but not as strict early as is often the case for Lamas. Wild, but controlled and pretty, will be outstanding.

'La Faraona' is from a single parcel on the highest hill in Corullon, Bierzo, at 855 metres. Very steep, south-east facing, planted to 65 year old vines. Oak and fermentation as per Moncerbal. Unfiltered, with total production of 2 barrels. Red-noted leather and heather, deep set with minerals, and boysenberry/satsuma fruits. A little quiet, reserved for now, but the delta fan palate with its always profound contradiction between tremendous concentration and an evanescent ‘everywhere-and-nowhere all at once’ dance and guile already taking shape.